Without a doubt, the finest representation of Madrid’s summer is its outdoor terraces—the perfect synonym for August in the Spanish capital. Those simple tables set along the sidewalks serve as the backdrop for some of the greatest moments of the summer season.
One of the best experiences you can enjoy is sitting around these tables and surrendering to one of Spain’s most iconic gastronomic customs: the ritual of sobremesa. That moment of pause where conversations linger, the hands of the clock seem to stop, and the summer heat is fended off with an ice-cold glass of wine or a freshly poured caña from the tap. And, of course, with non-stop laughter as the chat carries on.
Habanosommelier
I didn’t understand the significance of the terrace during my first year after arriving in Madrid; I had to live it, experience Spanish culture, and comprehend how this pause can reveal a different way of living life.
Something very similar happens when you smoke your first Habano. The flavor of Cuban Black tobacco is a complete gastronomic tour on your palate, but once you understand the value that a few leaves—called Cohoba by native Cubans—represent as the symbol of a nation, that is when the Habano evolves from a symphony on the palate to deeply touching your life and, without a doubt, the heart of every fine smoke enthusiast.
The route began on a typical August Friday, at 43 °C, with three great friends: Emi, Nico, and Sina. The blend of Argentina and Mexico gathered in a quaint little square hidden one street behind Plaza del Rey, known by this name since 1835 in honor of King Ferdinand VII, who had passed away two years earlier. That same spot had previously been named Plaza del Almirante because Manuel Godoy, the Admiral of Peace, once lived there. But this historic enclave has also been known as Plaza del Circo, as it was once home to the famous Teatro del Circo.
On the terrace of a tastefully decorated bar, we asked for a table for four. Soon a white wine from the Valencia region arrived at the table, bringing along conversations to catch up on our lives and, why not, shed a few tears over the trials of migration—something only fellow migrants can truly understand.
Night fell upon us, and the desire to enjoy fine smokes began to set in. A slight breeze of fresh air created the ideal atmosphere to light my Ramón Allones Allones No. 3 and enjoy the character of this vitola, whose full strength is undoubtedly an emblematic hallmark of the brand.
Engrossed in conversation, we walked along the grand avenue of Gran Vía. For me, the best way to enjoy it is at night. Built between 1910 and 1932, it displays grand buildings inspired by a blend of Neo-Baroque and Eclecticism. The standout landmark is the Metrópolis building, whose dark dome is gilded in gold.
According to my friend Sina, Madrid deserves a historical tour dedicated to the statues crowning the rooftops of downtown buildings, as several of their stories interconnect. I loved the idea, especially since the same could be done for the great smoking lounges that once existed throughout Madrid.
The terrace at the Círculo de Bellas Artes was our next stop. This rooftop lookout offers a postcard view of the Bank of Spain and the Cibeles roundabout—unquestionably a gift from magical summer nights.
The building is located between the city’s most famous arteries, Calle de Alcalá and Gran Vía. Designed by Antonio Palacios over 100 years ago, it sought to unite and safeguard the fine arts within a legendary club that boasted over 5,000 members during the 1920s. One of its signature events was the famous masquerade ball.
We had to fight a bit to secure our high table, as terraces get packed with visitors during the holiday season. From there, we were able to take in the lights of Madrid and its wonderfully authentic, castizo landscape.
I have always been fascinated by Madrid’s architecture and rooftops, with their iconic shade of brown.
My friends opted for wine given the warmth of the night. Shortly after, laughter reached its peak, and anecdotes began to adorn the conversation. A chat about the best romantic stories of the past provided the ultimate backdrop to slowly light my Habano. What a delight. I managed to savor that moment every enthusiast seeks: when the flavors of a Habano, paired with a great sobremesa, turn into a symphony.
We are talking about a Noblezas factory name (vitola de galera), 52 ring gauge, a thick format that I personally find remarkably enjoyable. There aren’t many Habano formats with this ring gauge that offer such a harmonious puff, providing a generous draw on the palate.
What a paradox of life: enjoying this vitola in a building that safeguards various art movements and the value each has brought to society. In 1845, brothers Antonio and Ramón Allones also gifted us art when they registered their brand at La Eminencia factory, where they crafted their Habanos: 129 Ánimas Street, Havana.
The art they left behind and the value they contributed to the industry can be appreciated in every box of Habanos, as Ramón Allones is credited as the first brand to utilize full-color lithographs on its box trimmings (habilitaciones).
Night moved forward alongside my Habano, which, amidst toasted notes, nuts, and spicy flavors, revealed its nobility and honest taste.
That summer pause gave me one of my finest Madrid nights, during which I discovered that the true value of the terrace lies not just in the sobremesa, but in the fine company illuminating the moment, in the laughter and stories that stretch out the conversation, and in the enjoyment of a Habano bathed in the streetlights of Madrid.
Because as Mario Benedetti wrote in Pausa de Verano:
As always in summer
Madrid has turned
Into a unanimous calm
Yet welcomes our stay
Against the grain of everyone else.
