The clock struck seven forty-five, or as they say in Madrid, a quarter to eight. The sky was painting itself over the Spanish capital with the first rays of sunset; a spectacle with which nature teaches us that we too can transform ourselves gradually, like the phases of light and shadow that this star projects onto a planet in orbit.
And in life, what truly exerts an attraction capable of putting us into orbit? In my case, without a doubt, Cuban black tobacco.
Read in the magazine (rotate your device for a better reading experience):
Master Habanosommelier
Madrid, Among Smokes
In the city, they say that watching a sunset at the Temple of Debod marks a milestone in your journey. Several friends encouraged me to discover this place and increased the curiosity that set me in motion toward the Metro Line 10 and the Plaza de España station, from which I emerged feeling among good smokes, in orbit, and reconnected with the city after the summer holidays.
Strolling through its gardens allowed me to greet Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra (I had to do it), or rather, to encounter this tribute –made a statue– to the legend of Hispanic literature. (I’ll open a parenthesis, as a commitment, so that in future columns we can travel together to Alcalá de Henares, the birthplace of the famous writer).
The families gathered and the children playing in the recreational spaces made me feel like a local as I walked toward one of Madrid’s wonders: the Temple of Debod. Although, like everything in life, it wasn’t easy. After taking Ferraz Street, you have to start climbing the Montaña del Príncipe Pío –originally called La Huerta (The Orchard), La Dehesa Florida (The Flowery Pasture), or Los Saltos de San Bernardino– famous for offering one of the most spectacular views of the Royal Palace and the entire western side of the Spanish capital.
Little by little, I felt the excitement of seeing thousands of tourists and locals of all ages heading toward the summit of the Mountain, climbing the stairs with overwhelming speed, compelled, it seemed, by the last rays of sun to catch this sunset.
The vibe of the place, especially in the gardens, with families, young people, and couples enjoying a picnic, laughing, singing, or expressing their love, were moments to remember. But the truly unforgettable experience was contemplating one of the most beautiful sunsets of my life, with golds, oranges, and reds that painted me with joy. A confirmation of nature’s magic.
But next to the famous railings of La Huerta, the mentioned jewel awaited me: the Debod, an Egyptian temple dating back to the 2nd century BC, donated to Spain in 1968 as thanks for its response to the international call to save the temples of Nubia, which were threatened by the construction of the Aswan Dam.
It is worth mentioning that Egypt donated three other temples: Dendur, to the United States; Ellesiya, to Italy; and Taffa, to the Netherlands. In the case of Debod, it was dismantled stone by stone and brought to Madrid, its original orientation being reconstructed on the site of the former Cuartel de la Montaña (Mountain Barracks). It finally opened to the public in 1972.
The Chapel of Adijalamani or of the Reliefs, the oldest part and core of the sanctuary, features paintings that represent the king adoring the gods and offering sacrifices. It was erected during the period of Pharaoh Ptolemy IV Philopator and later decorated by the Nubian king Adijalamani. One of its sections is dedicated to the god Amun of Debod and features significant additions from the Ptolemaic and Roman eras.
Time passed and night fell over Madrid. After coming down the mountain, my next step was to converse with another foreigner: I’m referring to Punch Triunfos, a Habano created on the island of Cuba in the mid-19th century as a tribute to the British market. The brand’s name refers to the clown Mr. Punch, a glove puppet very popular in London street performances.
And to enjoy our chat in style, we followed Maestro Guerrero Street to enter the Hotel Riu Plaza España, located about a hundred meters away, and literally went up to the 27th floor. Thanks to the nearly three-minute elevator ride and the mix of languages from the large number of tourists, Mr. Punch and I felt like we were on cloud nine upon arriving at the famous Sky Bar 360º; a place that will never go out of style.
The place was packed with people enjoying the sights, amid the lights of the old buildings that merged with the modernity of the spectacular Gran Vía, a street where theater billboards shine in all their splendor, under an equally spectacular moon. In fact, this space offers panoramic views of the city, and if you want to get the best postcard, I recommend arriving early and, if you can, sitting at the bar that runs along the glass windows.
With music in the background and a cocktail in hand, Punch Triunfos began to speak to my palate with notes of nuts, toast, and the brand’s typical floral quality. As the thirds progressed, it left me with hints of honey, vanilla, and a touch of nutmeg.
Thanks to its 129-millimeter length and 42 ring gauge, I was able to create my own orbit for a little more than 30 minutes, and the path of good smokes showed me that satellites are small moments gifted to us by a night and some tobacco leaves cultivated in one of the best lands for it: Cuba, “La Isla,” as I call it.
